Can anyone look cool wearing Snap’s $2,000 glasses?

有人戴上 Snap 售价 2000 美元的眼镜会显得很酷吗？

Short answer: Of course not. Long answer: Snap probably doesn’t intend for these to be mainstream smart glasses. 简短回答：当然不会。详细回答：Snap 可能根本没打算让这款产品成为大众化的智能眼镜。

Yesterday, Snap debuted its new $2,195 Specs glasses. In an interview with CNBC, Snap CEO Evan Spiegel described the Specs as something the company had been working on for more than 12 years, an attempt to “bring computing into the world” and “make it more human.” He positioned them as a device to help people stay more connected to the world around them instead of looking down at their phones. People, he said, are tired of screens. 昨天，Snap 发布了售价 2195 美元的新款 Specs 眼镜。在接受 CNBC 采访时，Snap 首席执行官埃文·斯皮格尔（Evan Spiegel）表示，这款眼镜是公司研发超过 12 年的成果，旨在“将计算带入现实世界”，并使其“更具人性化”。他将这款设备定位为一种帮助人们与周围世界保持联系，而不是低头看手机的工具。他说，人们已经对屏幕感到厌倦了。

While Spiegel was speaking, I was struck by how, whenever his head moved, the light caught the lenses just so, revealing the hidden outline of the Specs’ display. It was ironic that Spiegel was talking about screen fatigue and the desire to connect just as his very product visibly put a screen between him and the interviewer. 当斯皮格尔讲话时，我注意到每当他转动头部，光线就会恰好照在镜片上，显露出 Specs 显示屏的隐藏轮廓。讽刺的是，就在斯皮格尔谈论屏幕疲劳和连接渴望的同时，他自己的产品却明显地在他与采访者之间隔开了一块屏幕。

But mostly, I was distracted by how goofy the Specs looked on him. 但最让我分心的是，Specs 戴在他脸上看起来实在有些滑稽。

Fashion is subjective, but the Specs are objectively bold and distinctive. They’ve got chunky frames and an angular design that’s vaguely reminiscent of aviators. The arms are ginormous and look awfully heavy atop Spiegel’s ears. If there were absolutely no technology inside them, I’d say they were a statement piece, something typically worn by folks like the fashion icons Iris Apfel, Karl Lagerfeld, or even Edna Mode from The Incredibles. 时尚是主观的，但 Specs 在客观上确实非常大胆且独特。它们拥有厚重的镜框和棱角分明的设计，隐约让人想起飞行员墨镜。镜腿巨大，压在斯皮格尔的耳朵上看起来非常沉重。如果里面没有任何科技成分，我会说这是一款彰显个性的单品，通常是像艾瑞斯·阿普菲尔（Iris Apfel）、卡尔·拉格斐（Karl Lagerfeld）甚至《超人总动员》里的衣夫人（Edna Mode）那样的时尚偶像才会佩戴的款式。

To be clear, Snap is positioning these as an aspirational, high-fashion gadget. You only have to look at the company’s global advertising campaign, shot by fashion photographer Steven Meisel, known for his work with Vogue and haute couture houses like Versace, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, and Loewe. The models wearing the Specs? Big-name models like Kaia Gerber and Hoyeon, as well as basketball player Jimmy Butler and musicians Jack Harlow and Imogen Heap. Basically, all people known for their unique or eclectic sense of style. The problem is that the number one rule of wearable tech is that the device has to be comfortable — and stylistically versatile — enough for everyday wear. And on that front, Snap is setting these devices up to be worn by very few people. 需要明确的是，Snap 将其定位为一款令人向往的高端时尚小工具。看看该公司由时尚摄影师史蒂文·梅塞尔（Steven Meisel）拍摄的全球广告活动就知道了，他曾为《Vogue》以及范思哲（Versace）、华伦天奴（Valentino）、杜嘉班纳（Dolce & Gabbana）、巴黎世家（Balenciaga）和罗意威（Loewe）等高级时装屋工作。佩戴 Specs 的模特是谁？是凯雅·杰柏（Kaia Gerber）和郑浩妍（Hoyeon）这样的大牌模特，以及篮球运动员吉米·巴特勒（Jimmy Butler）和音乐人杰克·哈洛（Jack Harlow）、伊莫珍·希普（Imogen Heap）。基本上，这些人都是以独特或折衷的时尚品味而闻名。问题在于，可穿戴设备的第一准则就是必须足够舒适且风格百搭，才能适合日常佩戴。而在这一点上，Snap 的这款设备注定只能被极少数人佩戴。

I firmly believe anyone can pull off bold fashion with enough charisma and self-confidence. But in almost a decade of covering smart glasses, I’ve repeatedly seen that the bolder the design, the less confident the average Joe feels wearing them. Part of why the original Google Glass failed was that the design was too reminiscent of a Dragon Ball Z scouter or a cyberpunk dystopia. It made you easy to spot and easy to ridicule as a glasshole. Likewise, one of the main complaints I heard about the Meta Ray-Ban Display glasses was that the design was too chunky — and those borrowed a familiar, classic Wayfarer silhouette. Part of why the Ray-Ban Meta glasses work so well now is that they’re discreet and look like an ordinary pair of glasses. That’s also likely why the forthcoming Google and Samsung Android XR glasses are partnering with both Warby Parker and Gentle Monster. Warby Parker offers a stylish but low-key option, while Gentle Monster is available for folks with more avant-garde fashion sensibilities. 我坚信，只要有足够的魅力和自信，任何人都能驾驭大胆的时尚。但在报道智能眼镜的近十年里，我反复看到一个现象：设计越前卫，普通人戴上它时就越缺乏自信。初代 Google Glass 失败的部分原因在于其设计太像《七龙珠》里的战斗力探测器或赛博朋克反乌托邦产物。它让你很容易被发现，也很容易被嘲笑为“眼镜混蛋”（glasshole）。同样，我听到的关于 Meta Ray-Ban 智能眼镜的主要抱怨之一也是设计太厚重——尽管它们借鉴了经典的 Wayfarer 轮廓。Ray-Ban Meta 眼镜之所以现在如此成功，部分原因在于它们足够低调，看起来就像一副普通的眼镜。这也可能是即将推出的谷歌和三星 Android XR 眼镜选择与 Warby Parker 和 Gentle Monster 合作的原因。Warby Parker 提供时尚但低调的选择，而 Gentle Monster 则适合那些具有更前卫时尚品味的人群。

There’s no option to be discreet wearing the Specs. Perhaps that’s good from a public privacy perspective — you’ll be able to see someone wearing Specs a mile away. But it’s also one major reason why self-conscious folks won’t ever pick these up. (The other is the fact that these are $2,195.) The other problem is that we humans are vain creatures. These devices sit directly on your face and obscure your eyes, the so-called windows to the soul. If you even suspect you’ll look goofy in these, you’re just never going to buy them, even if they’re the most miraculous tech product in the world. If there’s even the off chance that wearing these on a first date won’t get you a second, why would you risk it? 戴上 Specs，你根本无法保持低调。从公共隐私的角度来看，这或许是件好事——你可以在一英里外就看到有人戴着 Specs。但这也是那些在意他人眼光的人永远不会购买它们的主要原因之一。（另一个原因是它们售价 2195 美元。）另一个问题是，人类是虚荣的生物。这些设备直接戴在你的脸上，遮住了你的眼睛——也就是所谓的“心灵之窗”。如果你哪怕有一点点怀疑自己戴上它们会显得滑稽，你就永远不会买，即使它是世界上最神奇的科技产品。如果戴着它去第一次约会可能会让你失去第二次约会的机会，你为什么要冒这个险呢？

There are other practical reasons why these glasses fail the most important wearable design rules. For starters, the 47mm version weighs 132 grams, while the 52mm version weighs 136g. I found the Meta Ray-Ban Display started hurting my face after a few hours, and those weighed 69g. As a lifelong glasses wearer, I’ve grilled opticians about ideal eyewear weight over the past three decades. (When you have garbage eyeballs and extremely strong prescriptions, lightweight frames are a must to prevent headaches.) Most have told me the ideal weight for lightweight glasses is somewhere between 15 and 25g. Acetate frames (think classic Brooklyn hipster glasses) typically weigh 20 to 35g. Smart glasses typically range from 40 to 70g, and you can definitely feel it after a few hours. At about double that weight, I can’t imagine the Specs are comfortable enough to wear for more than a few hours at a time. Meaning for those of us who need prescriptions, they cannot be your primary pair, and that means you’re spending $2,195 for a secondary pair of glasses. 还有其他实际原因导致这些眼镜未能遵循最重要的可穿戴设计准则。首先，47 毫米版本重 132 克，而 52 毫米版本重 136 克。我发现 Meta Ray-Ban 眼镜在佩戴几小时后就会让我的脸感到疼痛，而那款眼镜仅重 69 克。作为一名终身佩戴眼镜的人，过去三十年来，我一直向验光师咨询理想的眼镜重量。（当你视力极差且度数极高时，轻便的镜框是防止头痛的必备条件。）大多数人告诉我，轻便眼镜的理想重量在 15 到 25 克之间。醋酸纤维镜框（想想经典的布鲁克林潮人眼镜）通常重 20 到 35 克。智能眼镜通常在 40 到 70 克之间，佩戴几小时后你绝对能感觉到重量。而 Specs 的重量大约是这个数字的两倍，我无法想象它们能舒适地佩戴超过几个小时。这意味着对于我们这些需要矫正视力的人来说，它们无法成为你的主力眼镜，这意味着你得花 2195 美元去买一副备用眼镜。