Orange Crush: TAG Heuer Drops a Bright Revamp of the Original Metal F1 Watch
Orange Crush: TAG Heuer Drops a Bright Revamp of the Original Metal F1 Watch
橙色风暴:泰格豪雅推出经典金属 F1 腕表复刻版
Ever since WIRED reported last year on how TAG Heuer remade its classic Formula 1 watch series, we’ve been waiting for a particular model to be revamped in TAG’s new larger, solar-powered guise. 自从《连线》(WIRED)去年报道了泰格豪雅(TAG Heuer)如何重塑其经典一级方程式(Formula 1)系列腕表以来,我们一直期待着某款特定型号能以泰格豪雅全新的大尺寸太阳能版本回归。
The iconic bright orange 373.513, which later carried the model number WA1213, is not from the very first three-watch Formula 1 release revealed back in 1986, but it followed immediately after, and sported, along with green, black, and blue models, the first metal case for the F1. 标志性的亮橙色 373.513 型号(后来编号为 WA1213)并非 1986 年首次发布的三款 F1 腕表之一,但它紧随其后推出,并与绿色、黑色和蓝色款式一同,成为了 F1 系列中首批采用金属表壳的表款。
Finally, joining TAG’s 2025 relaunch of the series, the 373.513 is returning as part of the Solargraph F1s—and although it doesn’t carry any official designation, it seems it’s already being called “the Zandvoort” in watch circles, as the piece is supposedly here to mark the final Dutch Grand Prix taking place at the celebrated circuit at Zandvoort. 最终,作为泰格豪雅 2025 年系列重启计划的一部分,373.513 以 Solargraph F1 系列成员的身份回归。尽管官方并未赋予其特定名称,但在钟表圈中,它似乎已被冠以“赞德福特”(the Zandvoort)的绰号,因为这款腕表据称是为了纪念在著名的赞德福特赛道举办的最后一届荷兰大奖赛。
Like the rest of the new Formula 1 watches, the 38-mm Zandvoort solar F1 is larger than the original 28-mm and 35-mm versions, but, like the originals, it comes on either an orange rubber strap ($2,150) or steel bracelet (for $2,250, however, on this 2026 version, the bracelet is a three-row sand-blasted affair rather than the original five-row). 与新款 F1 系列的其他表款一样,这款 38 毫米的“赞德福特”太阳能 F1 腕表比最初的 28 毫米和 35 毫米版本更大。但它保留了原版的配置,提供橙色橡胶表带(售价 2,150 美元)或钢制表链(售价 2,250 美元)两种选择。不过,2026 年款的表链采用了三排喷砂设计,而非原版的五排设计。
Aside from the case-size change and alteration to the bracelet, pleasingly, much remains the same from the original ’80s versions. The gray opalin dial mirrors the 1980s hue, and the design on the orange rubber strap either side of the metal case that mirrors the TAG logo is retained. 除了表壳尺寸和表链的变化外,令人欣慰的是,大部分设计都延续了 80 年代的原版风格。灰色蛋白石表盘复刻了 80 年代的色调,而金属表壳两侧橙色橡胶表带上呼应泰格豪雅标志的设计也得到了保留。
One element of the ’80s F1 rubber straps that has not carried over to the new collection, though, is the V-shaped grooves on the bottom portion of the original straps. TAG made the ’80s rubber straps extra long so surfers and divers could wear the F1s over wet suits. The V-shaped grooves meant these could easily be cut down to a desired length—particularly useful if you were just going to wear it on the wrist and not in the waves. Clearly, TAG doesn’t want anybody cutting up its new rubber straps. 不过,80 年代 F1 橡胶表带上的一个元素并未延续到新系列中,那就是原版表带底部的 V 型凹槽。泰格豪雅当时将表带做得格外长,以便冲浪者和潜水员能将 F1 腕表佩戴在潜水服外。V 型凹槽的设计意味着用户可以轻松将其裁剪至所需长度——如果你只是日常佩戴而非在海浪中使用,这非常实用。显然,泰格豪雅并不希望用户裁剪他们的新款橡胶表带。
I’ve wanted a classic original orange TAG F1 for years, and finally managed to pick one up earlier this year, although it is the later WA1213 model. Eddy Burgener, who designed the TAG F1 in the ’80s, has stated that bright, popping colors were key to the original collection, and that the models were not, initially at least, thought of as being linked to driving but to water sports instead. 多年来我一直想要一块经典的橙色原版泰格豪雅 F1,今年早些时候终于如愿以偿,尽管我买到的是后期的 WA1213 型号。80 年代设计泰格豪雅 F1 的 Eddy Burgener 曾表示,明亮跳跃的色彩是原版系列的关键,而且这些表款最初并非为了与赛车运动挂钩,而是为了水上运动而设计。
Speaking to watch site Hodinkee last year, Burgener said TAG was “trying to create a new style of watches for American surfers, divers, and other young folks heading for the beach,” so the brief was to create a new watch that was fun, colorful, and young, emulating the bright surfboards and the clothes surfers were wearing at the time. 去年在接受钟表网站 Hodinkee 采访时,Burgener 表示,泰格豪雅当时“试图为美国的冲浪者、潜水员和其他前往海滩的年轻人创造一种全新的腕表风格”。因此,设计初衷是打造一款有趣、多彩且年轻化的腕表,模仿当时冲浪者所使用的明亮冲浪板和穿着的服饰。
To nail the bright colors, Burgener stated that the case had to be synthetic, which then added the complication of trying to make a diver’s watch using synthetic materials, something that was incredibly difficult at the time. In the end, they settled on a mixture of fiberglass and plastic as the base material for increased hardness and stability. 为了实现这种明亮的色彩,Burgener 指出表壳必须采用合成材料,这随之带来了如何用合成材料制造潜水表的难题,这在当时极其困难。最终,他们选择了玻璃纤维和塑料的混合物作为基材,以提高硬度和稳定性。
TAG’s solar F1s now sport a form of bioplastic—a more eco-friendly castor-based polyamide which the brand has named TH-Polylight—replacing the old “Arnite” thermoplastic. As before, this is molded over a steel inner core, making for a sports watch that’s more robust than most plastic-cased equivalents. 泰格豪雅现在的太阳能 F1 腕表采用了一种生物塑料——一种更环保的蓖麻基聚酰胺,品牌将其命名为 TH-Polylight,用以取代旧的“Arnite”热塑性塑料。与以往一样,这种材料被模塑在钢制内芯之上,使其成为一款比大多数塑料表壳腕表更坚固的运动手表。
By the time TAG’s “young” watch was introduced in 1986, the company had entered the racing world, and so the range duly adopted the name “Formula 1,” with the thinking that the F1’s bright colors and durable construction would appeal to both young divers and drivers. Regardless of the original target market, the F1 was an immense commercial success, surpassing 3 million units sold before the line was initially shelved. 当泰格豪雅这款“年轻”腕表于 1986 年推出时,公司已经进入了赛车领域,因此该系列顺理成章地采用了“一级方程式”(Formula 1)这一名称。当时的想法是,F1 鲜艳的色彩和耐用的结构既能吸引年轻的潜水员,也能吸引赛车手。无论最初的目标市场如何,F1 都取得了巨大的商业成功,在最初停产前销量超过了 300 万枚。
The new F1 Solargraph orange rubber strap model is limited to 1,500 pieces, while only 1,000 are available on the bracelet, which is also an online exclusive, so not available in physical stores. Both watches will be available to order next week, but you can sign up to get notification on when they drop now. 新款 F1 Solargraph 橙色橡胶表带款限量 1,500 枚,而钢链款仅限量 1,000 枚,且为线上独家发售,实体店不提供。两款腕表将于下周开放预订,但你现在就可以注册以获取发售通知。