The Watch World Went Crazy This Week. Here Are the 10 You Need to See
The Watch World Went Crazy This Week. Here Are the 10 You Need to See
本周钟表界风起云涌：这 10 款腕表你绝对不能错过
While Watches and Wonders every April is undoubtedly the watch world’s main event of the year, Geneva Watch Days—which inauspiciously launched in 2020, the year Covid was declared a pandemic—is now establishing itself as a serious follow-up. Big brands can hold back key releases and gain valuable space to shout about new pieces away from the horological hubbub of W&W.
虽然每年四月的“钟表与奇迹”（Watches and Wonders）无疑是钟表界年度最重要的盛事，但“日内瓦钟表日”（Geneva Watch Days）——这个在 2020 年新冠疫情爆发之初低调启动的展会——如今已确立了其作为重要后续活动的地位。各大品牌可以选择推迟发布关键新品，从而避开“钟表与奇迹”的喧嚣，获得宝贵的空间来宣传新作。
A second bite of the marketing apple in the latter half of the year seems like a good idea, as Swiss watch exports declined again in 2025 after a drop in 2024. However, despite America’s tariff seesaw, the US is still by far the single largest market for Swiss watches. And, more positively for watch fans, signs suggest the industry downturn could be over.
在下半年进行第二次营销推广似乎是个明智之举，毕竟继 2024 年下滑后，瑞士钟表出口额在 2025 年再次出现下降。然而，尽管美国关税政策反复无常，但美国依然是瑞士钟表最大的单一市场。更令表迷感到乐观的是，种种迹象表明，行业低迷期可能已经结束。
Here are WIRED’s picks of the best watches that dropped this week.
以下是《连线》（WIRED）杂志为您精选的本周最佳腕表。
Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis
百年灵航空计时系列 B09 迈尔斯·戴维斯致敬款计时码表 41
Inspired by the 1960s Breitling Navitimer 806 Mk5 worn by none other than Miles Davis, this manual-wind B09 with a display caseback takes cues from the original beyond the manual winding: the Twin Jet logo, reverse-panda dial, faux-aged cream-colored lume, and the original 41-mm dimensions. The pitch is that you get what made the 806 Mk5 great but with a modern overhaul. This model is limited to 500 pieces: You could go for the stainless steel on calf leather strap for $8,900, but we think you’d be kind of blue (sorry) to miss the superb bracelet model, complete with round vents, for $9,600.
这款手动上链 B09 腕表灵感源自爵士乐大师迈尔斯·戴维斯（Miles Davis）佩戴过的 1960 年代百年灵航空计时 806 Mk5。除了手动上链功能外，它还从原作中汲取了诸多元素：双喷气机标志、反转熊猫盘、仿旧奶油色夜光涂层以及原始的 41 毫米尺寸。其卖点在于，它既保留了 806 Mk5 的经典精髓，又进行了现代化的升级。该表款限量 500 枚：您可以选择售价 8,900 美元的小牛皮表带精钢款，但我们认为，如果错过那款配备圆形透气孔的精美钢链款（售价 9,600 美元），您一定会感到忧郁（Kind of Blue，致敬戴维斯名曲）。
Casio G-Shock “CasioNaut” Series
卡西欧 G-Shock “CasioNaut” 系列
Not part of Geneva Watch Days, here’s something genuinely new from Casio’s G-Shock line that’s leaked and could break the internet. The GAC-2500 series is a resin analog lineup supposedly built from the DNA of the DW-5000C, the very first G-Shock made back in 1983. But that’s not the real story of this piece. Much like the famous “CasiOak” that many G-Shock fans love for its passing resemblance to Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, this GAC-2500 series has more than a whiff of Patek Philippe’s Nautilus about it.
虽然不属于“日内瓦钟表日”的发布内容，但卡西欧 G-Shock 系列泄露的一款真正的新品可能会引爆网络。GAC-2500 系列是一款树脂指针腕表，据称其基因源自 1983 年诞生的首款 G-Shock——DW-5000C。但这并非该表款的真正看点。正如许多 G-Shock 粉丝因其酷似爱彼（Audemars Piguet）皇家橡树系列而钟爱“CasiOak”一样，这款 GAC-2500 系列也带有浓厚的百达翡丽（Patek Philippe）鹦鹉螺（Nautilus）风格。
So far, nicknames like “CasioNaut” and “CasioTilus” are being thrown around. Leaks suggest four resin colors at launch in November—white, black, green, and yellow—and the price is rumored to be 20,900 Japanese yen (about $134) each. There might be stainless-steel versions too—the GMC-2500D series, going for about $320.
目前，“CasioNaut”和“CasioTilus”等绰号已在坊间流传。泄露信息显示，该系列将于 11 月推出四种树脂配色——白、黑、绿、黄，传闻售价为每枚 20,900 日元（约合 134 美元）。此外可能还有不锈钢版本——GMC-2500D 系列，售价约为 320 美元。
Oris ProPilot X Gonzo Edition
豪利时 ProPilot X 冈佐（Gonzo）特别版
Following Miss Piggy and Kermit editions, Oris clearly feels it’s on to a winning formula with Muppets collaborations. This one is more interesting than the solid pink-and-green colors of the previous dalliances. The Gonzo is a reworking of Oris’ ProPilot X but with subtle, classy nods to Gonzo the Great that chime perfectly with the subtle, classy performance art that is his trademark. While the showman himself appears on the watch’s mainspring, at 11 o’clock, the thumping 10-day power reserve indicator is a red chili, inspired by one of Gonzo’s favorite shirts. Such subtlety comes at a cost, however, as at $10,500, the Gonzo is twice the price of a Kermit.
继“猪小姐”（Miss Piggy）和“科米蛙”（Kermit）版本之后，豪利时（Oris）显然认为与《布偶秀》（Muppets）的联名是一套成功的公式。这一款比之前纯粉色和纯绿色的设计更有趣。Gonzo 版是对豪利时 ProPilot X 的重新演绎，融入了对“伟大的冈佐”（Gonzo the Great）微妙而高级的致敬，与其标志性的、低调而优雅的行为艺术完美契合。虽然这位表演者本人出现在腕表的发条盒上，但在 11 点钟位置，那强劲的 10 天动力储存显示器被设计成了一颗红辣椒，灵感源自冈佐最喜欢的衬衫之一。然而，这种巧妙的设计代价不菲，10,500 美元的售价是科米蛙版的两倍。
Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport
真力时 Chronomaster Solo Sport 系列
A volume play from Zenith, and a good one. Bringing its famed El Primero movement to a cheaper—sorry, “more accessible”—price, the Solo Sport is a 40-mm steel diver watch, not a chronograph, with 200 meters of water resistance and a unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel. The black ceramic dial reveals the movement’s capabilities, with a high-frequency pattern and “Shark tooth” minute track, showcasing the caliber’s prize feature: 5 Hz or 36,000 vph (vibrations per hour). You can grab this for $10,900 with a date window, but those in the know will get the cleaner no-date for $9,800.
真力时的一次走量之作，而且非常成功。Solo Sport 将其著名的 El Primero 机芯带到了一个更便宜——抱歉，是“更亲民”——的价格区间。这是一款 40 毫米精钢潜水表（而非计时码表），具备 200 米防水深度和单向旋转陶瓷表圈。黑色陶瓷表盘展现了机芯的实力，配有高频纹理和“鲨鱼齿”分钟刻度，彰显了该机芯的核心优势：5 Hz 或 36,000 vph（每小时振动次数）。带日期窗口的版本售价 10,900 美元，但行家会选择更简洁的无日期版本，售价 9,800 美元。
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph
汉米尔顿卡其野战系列 Murph 腕表
Not physically at Geneva Watch Days either, Swatch Group’s Hamilton decided to crash the party and release an upgraded version of its successful Interstellar Murph timepiece. Dialing up the model’s association with Christopher Nolan’s classic sci-fi film, Hamilton has added a version to its collection with a dappled “comet-inspired” face where the blue center is intended to reflect the glow of ionized gases in space. Whether you understand this cosmic connection is immaterial when the outcome is this pleasing. Sensibly, Hamilton has chosen to release the new Murph in the preferred 38-mm sizing at $995.
同样没有参加“日内瓦钟表日”的斯沃琪集团旗下品牌汉米尔顿（Hamilton），决定“不请自来”，发布了其大获成功的《星际穿越》Murph 腕表的升级版。为了强化该表款与克里斯托弗·诺兰经典科幻电影的联系，汉米尔顿在系列中增加了一个带有斑驳“彗星灵感”表盘的版本，其蓝色中心旨在反射太空中电离气体的光芒。无论你是否理解这种宇宙联系，最终呈现的效果都足够令人愉悦。明智的是，汉米尔顿选择了以备受青睐的 38 毫米尺寸发布这款新 Murph，售价 995 美元。
Ming 57.05 Comet
Ming 57.05 彗星腕表
More comets? Yes indeed. Founded in 2017 by designer and photographer Ming Thein, this independent watch brand is known for a winning blend of refined aesthetics and innovative engineering. Here, this 40-mm stainless-steel worldtimer features a first-of-its-kind, patent-pending system for adjusting the time to account for daylight saving. Borrowing its name from the de Havilland Comet, the world’s first commercial jet airliner, the watch’s split bezel divides cities according to whether they observe daylight saving. Those that don’t are fixed on the inner bezel, but the ones that do are on the outer ring. Rotating this outer bezel advances only the affected cities by one hour. Clever.
还有彗星？没错。这个由设计师兼摄影师 Ming Thein 于 2017 年创立的独立制表品牌，以精致美学与创新工程的完美融合而闻名。这款 40 毫米不锈钢世界时腕表采用了一种首创的、正在申请专利的系统，用于调整夏令时。该表名借用了世界上第一架商用喷气式客机“德·哈维兰彗星号”（de Havilland Comet），其分体式表圈根据城市是否实行夏令时进行了划分。不实行夏令时的城市固定在内圈，而实行夏令时的城市则位于外圈。旋转外圈只会将受影响的城市时间拨快一小时。非常巧妙。
The limited run of 200 pieces has already been snapped up, but you can register online for future availability. If you get lucky, shun the $9,750 leather strap model for the $10,875 Polymesh bracelet version.
限量 200 枚的腕表已被抢购一空，但您可以在线注册以获取未来的购买机会。如果运气好，建议放弃 9,750 美元的皮带款，选择 10,875 美元的 Polymesh 链带款。
Tudor Northflag
帝舵 Northflag 腕表
Another no-show at Geneva Watch Days was this new piece from Tudor. Well, not new exactly. After discontinuing the North Flag as recently as 2021, Tudor is bringing it back. Originally launched in 2015 at Baselworld, the North Flag was the first Tudor to boast one of the company’s in-house movements. The new 40-mm “reissue” (now Northflag, not North Flag) sports a 24-hour hand for a second time zone. Water resistance is a respectable 100 meters, and there’s a display caseback, too. Inside is Tudor’s 4-Hz METAS-certified automatic movement. The uncluttered, functional black dial with yellow seconds and 24-hour hands is nicely contrasted.
另一款未在“日内瓦钟表日”亮相的新品来自帝舵（Tudor）。好吧，其实也不算完全“新”。在 2021 年刚刚停产 North Flag 后，帝舵又将其带了回来。North Flag 最初于 2015 年在巴塞尔钟表展上推出，是首款搭载帝舵自产机芯的表款。这款 40 毫米的新“复刻版”（现更名为 Northflag，而非 North Flag）配备了用于显示第二时区的 24 小时指针。防水深度达到不错的 100 米，并配有透底表背。内部搭载的是帝舵 4 Hz 的 METAS 认证自动机芯。简洁实用的黑色表盘与黄色的秒针和 24 小时指针形成了鲜明的对比。