Climate Change Has It In for the World’s Best Surfing
Climate Change Has It In for the World’s Best Surfing
Save this storySave this storyThis story originally appeared on The Guardian and is part of the Climate Desk collaboration. The climate crisis is coming for some of the world’s greatest surf breaks, submerging some as sea level rises and wiping out others as classic breaks get crushed against coastal developments.
气候危机正威胁着世界上一些最棒的冲浪点，海平面上升导致部分冲浪点被淹没，而沿海开发项目则摧毁了另一些经典浪点。
Analysis of dozens of famous waves in World Surfing Reserves (WSR) found that more than three-quarters were at high risk because of changing tide levels, hardened shorelines, and shifting sands.
对世界冲浪保护区（WSR）中数十个著名浪点的分析发现，超过四分之三的浪点因潮汐水位变化、海岸线硬化和泥沙位移而面临高风险。
The impacts matter not only to the surfers catching the waves but also to the communities that depend on the multibillion-dollar surf economy, often located in places with little else.
这些影响不仅关系到冲浪者，也关系到依赖数十亿美元冲浪经济的社区，这些社区往往位于缺乏其他资源的地区。
The waves rated at most risk in the study include the “bombing barrels” of Croyde Beach in North Devon, UK; the point breaks at Noosa in Australia and Oriente Salvaje, El Salvador; and Santa Cruz reefs of California such as Sewer Peak and Wind and Sea.
研究中被评为风险最高的浪点包括英国北德文郡克罗伊德海滩（Croyde Beach）的“巨浪管状浪”；澳大利亚努萨（Noosa）和萨尔瓦多奥连特萨尔瓦多（Oriente Salvaje）的定点浪；以及加利福尼亚州圣克鲁斯的礁石浪，如Sewer Peak和Wind and Sea。
The best surfing waves are created by intricate combinations of seafloor shape, swell direction, and tide. “Surf breaks are incredibly unique oceanographic phenomena—a confluence of all these factors that fit together just right to make the wave happen—and so those processes are really sensitive,” said Dan Reineman, an associate professor at California State University Channel Islands and a coauthor of the study.
最好的冲浪浪潮是由海底形状、涌浪方向和潮汐的复杂组合所创造的。“冲浪点是极其独特的海洋学现象——所有这些因素恰到好处地汇聚在一起才形成了浪潮——因此这些过程非常敏感，”加州海峡群岛州立大学副教授、该研究的合著者丹·莱内曼（Dan Reineman）表示。
Global heating is pushing up sea level and changing rainfall patterns that affect sediment movement, which can upset the delicate balance and destroy the wave. However, the researchers said the expert local knowledge of surfers could be tapped to help protect the waves.
全球变暖正在推高海平面并改变降雨模式，进而影响泥沙运动，这可能会打破微妙的平衡并摧毁浪点。然而，研究人员表示，可以利用冲浪者丰富的当地知识来帮助保护这些浪点。
Trent Hodges, a coauthor of the study and a senior programs manager at Save the Waves Coalition, which launched the WSR program in 2009, said: “Climate change will impact surf breaks all over the world in different ways, depending on their unique geographies. We learned directly from the local surfers how they are seeing their waves change. It’s a canary in the coal mine too—when a wave changes, that often means the beach is changing, and everybody enjoys the beach.”
该研究的合著者、2009年发起WSR项目的“拯救海浪联盟”（Save the Waves Coalition）高级项目经理特伦特·霍奇斯（Trent Hodges）表示：“气候变化将以不同的方式影响世界各地的冲浪点，具体取决于它们独特的地理环境。我们直接从当地冲浪者那里了解到他们如何观察到浪点的变化。这也是一种预警——当浪点发生变化时，通常意味着海滩也在发生变化，而每个人都享受海滩。”
The study, published in the journal Climatic Change, concludes: “Climate change and coastal management both have significant negative implications for the future viability of multiple surf breaks of global significance and, therefore, the myriad distinct local communities, cultures and economies they support.”
发表在《气候变化》（Climatic Change）期刊上的这项研究总结道：“气候变化和海岸管理都对多个具有全球意义的冲浪点的未来生存能力产生了重大的负面影响，进而影响到它们所支持的无数独特的当地社区、文化和经济。”
Almost 200 local experts analyzed 57 surf breaks in all but two of the 13 WSRs, spread across eight countries. The researchers said thousands of other surf waves around the world faced similar peril.
近200名当地专家对分布在八个国家的13个世界冲浪保护区中的11个进行了分析，共涉及57个冲浪点。研究人员表示，世界各地成千上万的其他冲浪点也面临着类似的危险。
A key finding was that where coastlines were more natural, they could adapt better to the changes brought by the climate crisis, by shifting inland and relocating sediments. Development such as sea walls, jetties, and groynes made the beaches and waves less resilient, Reineman said.
一个关键发现是，在海岸线更自然的地方，它们可以通过向内陆移动和重新安置泥沙，更好地适应气候危机带来的变化。莱内曼说，海堤、防波堤和丁坝等开发项目使海滩和浪点的适应力变差。
Adam Hall, a cofounder of the North Devon WSR, was one of the local surfers who contributed to the study. He said: “North Devon is so special. We have Saunton Sands, a world-renowned longboarding wave with really long, mellow rides, and the UK’s best beach break at Croyde. We’ve got left- and right-hand point breaks and a sheltered spot for when it gets too windy and too big. Whatever you want to do, we’ve got it.”
北德文郡WSR的联合创始人亚当·霍尔（Adam Hall）是参与该研究的当地冲浪者之一。他说：“北德文郡非常特别。我们有桑顿沙滩（Saunton Sands），这是一个世界闻名的长板冲浪点，浪势平缓且行程很长；还有英国最好的海滩冲浪点克罗伊德。我们有左手和右手定点浪，还有一个在风太大或浪太高时可以避风的地点。无论你想做什么，我们这里都有。”
He said surfing was very important for the local economy, and not just in summer. “Surfers will come throughout the year. They fill up the pubs, restaurants, and car parks when the swells are good in January, February, and March, where if you go to any other tourist destination that doesn’t have surf, they’re dead on their knees.”
他说，冲浪对当地经济非常重要，而且不仅仅是在夏天。“冲浪者全年都会来。当1月、2月和3月涌浪良好时，他们会挤满酒吧、餐馆和停车场；而如果你去任何其他没有冲浪资源的旅游目的地，它们在这些时候往往门可罗雀。”